One of my big goals for this year is to design and crochet more wearables! I am starting off with this Skinny Stripe Sweater that works from a very basic pattern of SC and DC stitches. The body works in one piece from the top down and then you will crochet the arms. Add in some colorful stripes or leave one color! Up to you! There is lots of ways to customize this simple crochet sweater.
This post/pattern is currently a WORK IN PROGRESS. I am basing the first sweater off of my body size (XS) and experimenting as I go. I am also adding ribbing around the wrists, neckline, and bottom edge but this is totally optional. You could add on some length just by crocheting additional rounds of DC stitches.

I purposely started this sweater with a big boat neckline so you can easily slip this sweater on and off.
I want to get some feedback from a pattern tester regarding other sizes so stay tuned for an updated pattern post as I continue to work on this project!
In full disclosure, I also had to order more gray yarn so I could finish my sweater and work on a smaller size for Zoe! Bear with me while I wait for my yarn to arrive and continue to work on this pattern. You may see me post other projects in the meantime but you can always come back to this post for updates as I have them ready.
Materials:
– Red Heart Super Saver Yarn in Light Gray (3 skeins), and less than one skein of Aqua, Peacock, Royal Blue, Medium Purple, Pink, and Saffron
Red Heart with Love would also be a good option for this sweater if you want it super soft!
– Size H Crochet Hook
– Tapestry Needle
Skinny Stripes Sweater Pattern – SIZE XS
(this could fit a tween/teen/older child)
starting with gray yarn
chain 100, join to first chain (be sure not to twist your chain), chain 2 and DC in each stitch around, join, chain 2 (chain 2 does not count as DC) (100 DC)
Round 2: 2 DC in first stitch, DC in next 9 stitches, repeat around, join, chain 2 (110 DC)
Round 3: 2 DC in first stitch, DC in next 10 stitches, repeat around, join,
chain 2 (120 DC)
Note: This is where you could continue to increase to make the sweater bigger (next round would be 2 DC in first, DC in next 11, etc)
Round 4-5: DC in each stitch around, join, chain 2 (120 DC)
Round 6: DC in the first 35, chain 10 and skip 25 stitches (first armhole), DC in next 35, chain 10 and skip 25 stitches (second armhole), join to first DC, chain 2
Round 7: DC in each stitch around including the 10 chains in each armhole (do not fasten off) (90 DC)
Round 8: join in turquoise yarn and chain 1, SC in each stitch around (90 SC)
Round 9: carry up gray yarn, join in and chain 2 (you can fasten off and re-attach yarn if this is too confusing). DC in each stitch around (90 DC)
Round 10: join in light blue yarn and chain 1, SC in each stitch around (90 SC)
Round 11: join in gray yarn and chain 2, DC in each stitch around (90 DC)
Round 12: join in dark blue yarn and chain 1, SC in each stitch around (90 SC)
Round 13: join in gray yarn and chain 2, DC in each stitch around (90 DC)
Round 14: join in purple yarn and chain 1, SC in each stitch around (90 SC)
Round 15: join in gray yarn and chain 2, DC in each stitch around (90 DC)
Round 16: join in pink yarn and chain 1, SC in each stitch around (90 SC)
Round 17: join in gray yarn and chain 2, DC in each stitch around (90 DC)
Round 18: join in yellow yarn and chain 1, SC in each stitch around (90 SC)
Round 19-30 (or longer): DC in each stitch around, join, chain 2 (90 DC)
Fasten off and weave in ends or continue by making a row of SC along the edge if you aren’t going to add ribbing.
Now let’s add the arms! Follow the pattern below for both arms.
Join in gray yarn along any space in arm hole. chain 2 and DC in each stitch around for a total of 40 DC, join, chain 2
Round 2-18: DC in each stitch around, join, chain 2
Round 19: SC in each stitch around in turquoise
Round 20: DC in each stitch around in gray
Round 21: SC in each stitch around in light blue
Round 22: DC in each stitch around in gray
Round 23: SC in each stitch around in dark blue
Round 24: DC in each stitch around in gray
Round 25: SC in each stitch around in purple
Round 26: DC in each stitch around in gray
Round 27: SC in each stitch around in pink
Round 28: DC in each stitch around in gray
Round 29: SC in each stitch around in yellow
Round 30-31 (or longer): DC in each stitch around, join, chain 2
fasten off and weave in ends or add a round of SC along the edge if you aren’t going to add ribbing.
SC along the the top edge or add ribbing.
Ribbing:
Chain 13, Slip stitch in second chain from hook and in next 8, SC in last 3, chain 1, turn
Row 2-40 (for arms) Row 2-120 (for neck) Row 2-90 (for bottom edge): in back loops only, SC in the SC stitches from previous row, slip stitch in the slip stitches from previous row, chain 1, turn
Fasten off and stitch ribbing pieces onto sweater with tapestry needle.
UPDATE January 22, 2021
My amazing fellow crocheter Erin is super speedy and already made a Skinny Stripe Sweater in a size Medium! She gave me all of her pattern adjustments and notes (all written out below) so you can make one in this size too! I love that she used Caron One Pound in Black with the addition of gray stripes. This is the color and type of sweater I would personally wear daily! I like it better than most sweaters I see in stores! Thank you Erin for all your hard work and for sharing your gorgeous sweater with us!

Skinny Stripes Sweater Pattern – Size Medium
Materials:
– Caron One Pound Skein – Black (1 full and about 1⁄4 of second)
– For grey stripes, about half of Red Heart Super Saver Yarn – Dusty Grey – Size H Crochet Hook
– Tapestry Needle
Note: Pattern below is written for original colors but you could make Erin’s black/gray version just by switching the colors.
Skinny Stripes Sweater Pattern – Size Medium
starting with gray yarn
chain 100, join to first chain (be sure not to twist your chain), chain 2 and DC in each stitch around, join, chain 2 (chain 2 does not count as DC) (100 DC)
Round 2: 2 DC in first stitch, DC in next 9 stitches, repeat around, join, chain 2 (110 DC)
Round 3: 2 DC in first stitch, DC in next 10 stitches, repeat around, join,
chain 2 (120 DC)
Round 4: 2 DC in first stitch, DC in next 11 stitches, repeat around, join, chain 2 (130 DC)
Round 5: 2 DC in first stitch, DC in next 12 stitches, repeat around, join, chain 2 (140 DC)
Round 6-7: DC in each stitch around, join, chain 2 (140 DC)
Round 8: DC in the first 45, chain 16 and skip 25 stitches (first armhole), DC in next 45, chain 16 and skip 25 stitches (second armhole), join to first DC, chain 2
Round 9: DC in each stitch around including the 16 chains in each armhole (do not fasten off) (122 DC)
Round 10: join in turquoise yarn and chain 1, SC in each stitch around (122 SC)
Round 11: carry up gray yarn, join in and chain 2 (you can fasten off and re-attach yarn if this is too confusing). DC in each stitch around (122 DC)
Round 12: join in light blue yarn and chain 1, SC in each stitch around (122 SC)
Round 13: join in gray yarn and chain 2, DC in each stitch around (122 DC)
Round 14: join in dark blue yarn and chain 1, SC in each stitch around (122 SC)
Round 15: join in gray yarn and chain 2, DC in each stitch around (122 DC)
Round 16: join in purple yarn and chain 1, SC in each stitch around (122 SC)
Round 17: join in gray yarn and chain 2, DC in each stitch around (122 DC)
Round 18: join in pink yarn and chain 1, SC in each stitch around (122 SC)
Round 19: join in gray yarn and chain 2, DC in each stitch around (122 DC)
Round 20: join in yellow yarn and chain 1, SC in each stitch around (122 SC)
Round 21-37 (or longer): DC in each stitch around, join, chain 2 (122 DC)
Fasten off and weave in ends or continue by making a row of SC along the edge if you aren’t going to add ribbing.
(Optional) Note: Continuing to the waist with 122 stitches felt too wide towards the bottom. I tapered in my sweater starting at row 36. After the portion with the stripes, if a more fitted design is desired, I recommend decreasing sooner.
Row 36: *DC 9 stitches, DC 2 tog*, repeat from * * until 1 stitch left; DC in last stitch.
Row 37: *DC 9 stitches, DC 2 tog*, repeat from * * until 1 stitch left; DC in last stitch.
Now let’s add the arms!
Follow the pattern below for both arms.
Join in gray yarn along any space in arm hole. chain 2 and DC in each stitch around for a total of 48 DC, join, chain 2
Round 2-18: DC in each stitch around, join, chain 2
Round 19: SC in each stitch around in turquoise
Round 20: DC in each stitch around in gray
Round 21: SC in each stitch around in light blue
Round 22: DC in each stitch around in gray
Round 23: SC in each stitch around in dark blue
Round 24: DC in each stitch around in gray
Round 25: SC in each stitch around in purple
Round 26: DC in each stitch around in gray
Round 27: SC in each stitch around in pink
Round 28: DC in each stitch around in gray
Round 29: SC in each stitch around in yellow
Round 30-36 (or longer): DC in each stitch around, join, chain 2
fasten off and weave in ends or add a round of SC along the edge if you aren’t going to add ribbing.
(Optional) Note: Once I got through the shoulder, the arm seemed too wide to continue at 48 stitches down to the wrist. To taper down the circumference of the sleeve, I decreased from 48 to 40 stitches between row 7 to row 13 of sleeve. Trying the sweater on as much as possible is key. In rows 7 to 13, I crocheted 15 DC, DC decrease, then DC in remaining stitches in the round. At round 14, I continued working 40 stitches to the end of the sleeve.
SC along the the top edge or add ribbing.
Ribbing:
Chain 13, Slip stitch in second chain from hook and in next 8, SC in last 3, chain 1, turn
Row 2-43 (for arms) Row 2-120 (for neck) Row 2-90* (for bottom edge): in back loops only, SC in the SC stitches from previous row, slip stitch in the slip stitches from previous row, chain 1, turn
Fasten off and stitch ribbing pieces onto sweater with tapestry needle.
*(Optional) Note: I modified the waist ribbing slightly by doing single crochet only. I started with a chain 13, single crocheted in second chain from hook and the rest of the way down. I continued to single crochet in back loops only for 112 rows. This made it a bit more loose.
Here are few more pictures of Erin wearing her gorgeous Skinny Stripe Sweater!!


Can’t wait to show you my finished sweater as well as the other sizes! Thanks for your patience! If you make this sweater and have suggestions regarding sizing please email me at [email protected] It really is best to try the sweater on as you go to make sure length and width is correct.
Enjoy sweater weather!





I would need to make a xlarge. How would I increase .
Looks fabulous, I expected the rib for the neck edge to be 100 rows to match the starting chain, not sure if it’s a typo.
Wow! I think you created a really nice sweater! Thank you!!
I plan to attempt to create one for my daughter (size Lg) and one for my granddaughter (size 24 mos). Wish me luck with the size adjustments
Lynn
This looks so cute on you! Can’t wait to make this. Will you make adjustments for different sizes? Im definitely not an xs 🙂
looks gorgeous!
Really cute sweater! I love the neckline. Could you please post the body measurements? That would give me an idea how many stitches I need to add for my size. Thanks!
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What a sweet sweater! It looks great on you!
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I like this sweater a lot and would love to make it. The neckline is perfect for me so I hope it will be available for some of us larger chested ladies – like a size Med or large. Would love to make one for my daughter who has a really large chest, lol!!! Can’t wait for the larger size patterns!! Thank you so much for sharing!!!
Love it! ❤️ I made it immediately & although I’m not really an XS (more like a M) it fits! I did the ribbing a little differently but I followed the rest of the pattern exactly. Thank you for another great pattern! Wish I could include a picture so you could see how cute it turned out. Thanks again & Happy New Year